The website itself seems generated with some kind of kick-ass generator from template files (.gmi?)
I feel like I'm stuck with Wordpress.com because it brings me some traffic (whereas something hand-rolled on nsfspeech or digital ocean or whatever would literally be off the edge of the web), but the structure of that is so cool.
You can easily do proper SEO with static site generators too. Even more, static sites can be hosted via GitHub or GitLab Pages, Netlify or CloudFlare and in all cases the speed will outperform Wordpress in almost all cases. Also, you have way more control over the output than with Wordpress.
I feel like I'm stuck with Wordpress.com because it brings me some traffic (whereas something hand-rolled on nsfspeech or digital ocean or whatever would literally be off the edge of the web), but the structure of that is so cool.