I used Nautilus for a little while and ran into all of these same issues. Since I use i3 and not Gnome, I decided to replace it with another file manager rather than deal with the headache. I’m using xfe. It had the power user oriented features I want, but don’t love it either. The icons are rendered very badly on a HDPI screen. I guess I’m still searching for the right file manager.
I've been trying it out since your comment, and I have to say it's not bad. I don't love the look of KDE-ecosystem apps, but I'm warming up to them more and more.