It doesn't diminish most of your points, but getting PyTorch to work on Arch Linux is as easy as installing the `python-pytorch-opt-rocm` package. Similar with Ollama: `ollama-rocm`. So if you just want to use PyTorch, and don't need the very latest version, I wouldn't say the dev experience with Nvidia is much better.
Same experience here. Installing ROCm and Ollama on my box were both dead simple and everything worked right out of the box. Using an RX 7900 XTX card, FWIW.