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The challenge with opening the window isn't even the cost - which is substantial - from about £250/month to £400/month if I have my windows open even a little bit.

The bigger challenge is with my windows open, my heating just can't even keep up! It'll be maxed out and only 18c.

I do the German-style luften twice a day, but if our interiors are just absorbing the compounds and releasing it when the windows are shut, then that's not even going to help much.






Good advice if you can do it, but this isn't possible for most people, for example if you're renting or you're in an apartment.

It is called recuperator. If it is possible to retrofit i suggest to use mounted in attic (it will be silent). Otherwise, if you want higher quality not and these `breathing` types the box will have similar size like air conditioner (search: mitsubishi vl-100eu5-e)

Indeed, but a traditional MVHR would require ductwork which isn't common in the UK and often there isn't really any space to route it.

I have been investigating easier to retrofit decentralised MVHR systems such as the Prana Recuperator, Ventaxia Tempra and the Blauberg Vento. They can be noisy (not a problem for me, I don't mind noise) and quite expensive as you have to fit a number of units in different rooms, but still easier than retrofitting ducting.


It's not something you just add. It's a capital renovation. Requires ducting. Tons of homes don't even have ducting.

For those prices, buy an Ambient Weather base station along with this CO2 sensor:

https://ambientweather.com/indoor-wireless-air-quality-monit...

We have low-voc foam in the attic, which outgasses voc’s slowly and constantly. (They measure voc release at application time, not over the product lifetime).

I started actively venting the attic a two months ago. The whole house reeked of foam for a week or so whenever the windows were closed.

It’s fallen off a lot, even though the attic foam is 5 years old.

I think the sponge analogy is correct. If the house is sealed, the VOCs accumulate in the atmosphere, and are reabsorbed into the foam at the rate they are released into the air.

If you leave the house completely open, the outgassing will not be offset by reabsorption.

I think the CO2 in our place accumulates faster than the VOCs I can smell, so opening the windows when the meter tells us to keeps the net rate of outgassing high, and the indoor pollution low. It seems like the outgassing is slowing down now.

I really should get some VOC meters.


> German-style luften twice a day

Das ist nicht genug und klingt ehrlich gesagt grauslich.

Not German approved.


Why do you need it to be cooler than 18c?

> The bigger challenge is with my windows open, my heating just can't even keep up! It'll be maxed out and only 18c.

They're trying to heat it.


You’re replying to somebody from the UK. They want it warmer than 18C inside. In winter it is typically much colder than this outside so they’re saying their heating won’t get the house warmer than this even if windows are only cracked open.

I think they want more than 18c. 18c is pretty cold to sit in for a prolonged time.

At 18C I wouldn't even put on a sweater. People need to stop being so wimpy. 10C is a good target temperature during the winter.

10C is a great indoor temperature if you want condensation everywhere and eventually mold, but that's a price worth paying to not be considered "wimpy" I suppose? https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/advice/minimum-house-temperat...

> The minimum house temperature your home should be kept at to avoid damp, mould and condensation is 18°C, according to health and energy experts.

That article and the supposed experts are idiotic. Condensation is a function of relative temperatures and humidities. If your house is warmer than outdoors, then you're not going to get condensation from outdoor air.


The outdoor air isn't really relevant, the issue is human activity (breathing, showering, laundry, etc.) raising the indoor humidity when combined with low indoor temperatures causing surfaces to approach the dew point. Particularly external walls or windows that will be a lower temperature than the room as a whole.

At 70% RH and 15C air temperatures, the dew point is 10C - which could easily be achieved along the exterior walls of an older more poorly insulated house.


If only there were some way to circulate expired air out of a building, perhaps with open windows...

My house is bone dry in winter with the windows regularly open. The humidity concern is idiotic.


Good that everybody is the same and when 18°C is enough for you everybody should be fine with it, even children, old people and sick ones.

Spindly old grandmothers can crank the thermostat. Everybody else who cranks it then proceeds to whine about the cost and air quality is being an idiot. Put on a sweater.

Good for you. At 18C my fingers get too cold to type properly and I keep missing keys.

Great, just need to get fat.



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