The intended use-case for this board is some robotics applications. I don't think parts of robots need to communicate via gigabit. 10/100 Base-T is presumably easier to implement and thus cheaper and smaller (which is the point of this project)
While I'm not the commenter that you are replying to, I do drive a plug-in hybrid.
I find fuel economy is worse if you don't heavily utilise the electric side, and on-the-road cost is more than a straight petrol engine version of the same car, with less boot storage space as well, as the battery takes up space (and space where a spare tyre now cannot be), although it can make economic sense due to some taxes being less. (e.g. BIK tax rate of ~8-10% vs ~25-30%).
You'll only really get good fuel economy if you are plugging it in to charge every night, and doing a correspondingly suitable amount of daily miles.
And if you're plugging the car in overnight every night... you might as well just get a full BEV anyway.
The whole plug-in hybrid thing just feels like a tax dodge (either because it take advantage of perverse incentives, or works around low emission schemes), or a halfway house for people who aren't yet ready to make the jump to a BEV.
For me, even driving one (for the aforementioned financial considerations), I feel the reasons to buy/drive a plug in hybrid don't really make sense from any other point-of-view, and at this stage my next car is most likely to be a BEV.
That doesn't make much sense. Hybrids literally have much better MPG figures and that takes into account that you can't run off battery to cheat these numbers.
Regenerative breaking is a huge MPG win and you can't do that without being Hybrid.
I entirely agree with you, on paper they should have better MPG.
But I don't find those figures reflected in my actual on the road experience.
Edit: That may say something about my driving style though! ;)
Edit2: The situation may be different for PHEV vs normal hybrid (more battery weight for PHEV), and may change with quality of hybrid power management implementation.
We made such chest fridge from an old freezer, and have been using it for almost a year now. The floor space it takes isn't that concerning, as it doubles as a counter top. It really is very efficient.
The only problem we have is humidity. With everyday use, a lot of condensed water gets stuck inside, the humidity goes near 100 % and the moulds really like that.
We tried many things, including making a drain hole inside, but nothing helped. We "solved" it with putting 1 kg of adsorbent (silica gel) on the bottom. It lasts about two months between regenerations, so it is quite usable this way.
With a regular fridge/freezer the steady-state relative humidity should be quite low because the cooling coils will condense out a lot of the water vapour, and drain it out a hole in the back to evaporate outside the enclosure. The cooling coil is always going to be the coldest surface within the enclosure, therefore that's where the water vapour would tend to condense.
Don't chest fridges have a similar mechanism? Perhaps the problem is things being too closely-packed, so the air can't circulate - so that when the lid is opened and water vapour let in from outside, it condenses on the food etc - but this isn't then removed by the mechanism above.
The cooling in this freezer is all around the walls, and the condensed water stays on the walls and then falls down on the bottom. There was originally no drain hole, and even adding the drain hole didn't solve the problem.
It was designed as a freezer, not a fridge, after all.
> We tried many things, including making a drain hole inside, but nothing helped. We "solved" it with putting 1 kg of adsorbent (silica gel) on the bottom. It lasts about two months between regenerations, so it is quite usable this way.
Now THIS is a great idea! I have the same thing (converted old freezer to chest fridge with custom IoT temperature-controlled plug switch magic; though I now replaced it with a chest freezer that was actually designed with a thermostat allowing temperatures over 0 degrees celsius) and the same exact problem with the moisture accumulating at the bottom. The device actually has a hole to let the water out, but that's not helping as there must be a huge puddle of water before it even starts reaching the drain in one of the edges of the machine.
I might try that adsorbent trick, though I would imagine that I'd have to add some kind of grating on top of the adsorbent? Because I'd rather not want to place my water bottles into the adsorbent and have it stick to the bottom of the bottles.
I've had the wick routed along the outer side of the fridge for a few days now and it managed to remove every last bit of water (when I placed it there were puddles of water all around the fridge) and successfully keeps the fridge dry now. The water evaporates from a piece of cloth attached to the ends of the wick as planned, so the entire system is maintenance-free now. During the first days the cloth piece was totally soaked, but now that the initial puddles were removed it is relatively dry and I could just place it under the bottom of the machine, so it is practically invisible.
Nice idea, thanks! I've just ordered a few meters of wick and will try exactly this. The puddle actually isn't a puddle; it's more that the condensed water drips down the four sides of the interior walls and collects at the bottom where the walls hit the floor. I should thus be able to run the wick around the bottom of the freezer in the edge to collect most of the water.
The drain hole is in the bottom, so I can run the wick through it and out of the machine. I hope to simply be able to attach a shred of cloth or something to the end of the wick in order to evaporate the water away to the outside air. That would make a nice, maintenance-free solution.
I use colored indicator silica beads for desiccant purposes and when the indicator shows they're "wet"/green, I spread them evenly on a baking sheet with foil and bake them at the recommended temp, stirring occasionally, until they turn back orange.
We bake it on low temperature for like two hours. We did it just once, so we cannot assess whether it's still efficient with the baking energy included.
But the winter is coming now, so the extra heat generated when regenerating won't go to waste.
I wonder how effective a 1kg $1 box of salt would work. I guess it would have to be dumped into a Teflon mailing bag to breathe better than the box it comes in.
Then toss it every few months. Mold won’t grow on the salt itself, so could cook with it.
Or use it as driveway deicer.
Or just but the 10kg bags of rock salt in winter for driveway deicer for like $5.
